In short

Clean leather upholstery by dusting it with a dry microfiber cloth and wiping it with a barely damp one, then conditioning it lightly a couple of times a year. Soap, vinegar, wipes and all-purpose sprays strip the protective finish, which is a common path to cracking. Test every product on a hidden spot, and stop if color comes off on the cloth.

Worth remembering

  • Dust with a dry microfiber cloth, then wipe with one that is barely damp.
  • Keep vinegar, baby wipes, glass cleaner, saddle soap and all-purpose sprays off furniture leather.
  • Condition lightly a couple of times a year with a product made for your type of leather.
  • Cracks, peeling and lost color cannot be cleaned away.

Dust first, then wipe

Dust and body oil sit on the surface, and wiping them with a wet cloth grinds them into the grain. Start with a soft, dry microfiber cloth on the arms, headrest and seat, folding it often to a clean face. Vacuum the seams with a soft brush.

Then wipe with a second cloth wrung out until it is barely damp, in light strokes along one direction, and dry the leather right away with a third. Leather that is left wet can stain and stiffen.

Work from the top of the piece down, so loosened dust does not land on leather you have just finished.

What to keep away from leather

Much cracked leather is not old. It has been cleaned with something that stripped the protective finish, or left to dry out. These are the usual culprits.

  • Baby wipes and disinfecting wipes.
  • Glass cleaner and all-purpose sprays.
  • Vinegar, bleach and household soap.
  • Saddle soap, which is made for riding tack and not for a living room.
  • A hair dryer or a heating vent pointed at the surface.

Conditioning, and how little to use

Conditioner replaces the oils that leather loses, and a couple of times a year is enough for most pieces. Choose a product that suits your type of leather, put a thin coat on a cloth and work it in, then let it absorb and buff off what remains. A heavy coat leaves the surface sticky and collects dust.

Test on a hidden spot first, because some conditioners darken light leather. Wait until the surface is dry after cleaning before applying any.

New Jersey winters and summers

Heated winter air dries leather, so a sofa next to a radiator or a heating vent cracks sooner. Move it a little away from the source, and condition before the heating season starts.

In humid summers the risk changes to mildew. Keep air moving in the room, run the air conditioning, and wipe any white or fuzzy spots off promptly with a barely damp cloth.

Spills, sweat and body oils

Blot a spill at once with a dry cloth and let leather air dry. Do not rub, and do not reach for a stronger product. Sweat and skin oil build up gradually on headrests and arms and wipe off with the damp cloth method, repeated as often as it takes.

White wine, coffee and juice do the most harm when they sit. A quick blot is worth more than any product, and a mark that has already dried should go to a specialist, not be scrubbed.

Damage home care cannot fix

Cracking, peeling, deep scratches, ink, lost color and dye transferred from dark clothing do not wipe away. Conditioning can soften leather that is only dry, but it cannot refill a crack or restore a faded finish. If the surface is flaking, the topcoat has failed, and a leather or upholstery specialist is the person to ask.

Questions, answered

Can I use leather wipes on a sofa?

Wipes made for leather are gentler than household wipes, but they still leave residue if overused. Test one on a hidden spot, use it sparingly and follow with a dry cloth. Regular dusting and a barely damp wipe cover most routine cleaning.

How often should leather upholstery be conditioned?

A couple of times a year suits most pieces, and before the heating season is a sensible time for one of them. Leather near a radiator or in strong sun may need it more often. If the surface feels dry or looks dull, condition it lightly.

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